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Viognier is an elegant change of pace
Viognier (vee-on-yay) is perfume-like on the nose and palate. Showing notes of pear blossoms and honeysuckle, it's soft, lush mouth-feel comes from lower acidity. Because of its distinct mineral notes, viognier can be very elegant.
Exotic, elegant, and incredibly fussy, viognier is susceptible to mildew and disease. Because it buds early, its already finicky yields are further threatened by late Spring frosts. Viognier needs to ripen fully or it does not develop its rich flavors. This grape brings frustration to growers.
There are only about 3000 acres of viognier growing in California, compared to chardonnay's 100,000 acres. Even with these lopsided numbers, viognier is a worthy rival for the affection of the chardonnay drinker. Viognier excites the palate with an explosion of refreshing, perfectly ripe late summer fruits. Peaches, apricots, and pears, its floral nuances and flirtatious minerals place it above mainstream white wines.
Viognier's history spans over two thousand years in France. Its lofty reputation was earned in the tiny growing regions of Condrieu and Château Grillet in France's northern Rhône Valley. Wines labeled Condrieu and Château Grillet are exclusively viognier, extremely limited, and pricy.
Today, viognier is flourishing in California, Argentina, and Australia. Prices for these alluring New World white wines are as varied as the styles. Ten dollar versions are delicious, while versions reminiscent of Condrieu command more money. Consider viognier from the southern Rhône Valley, Provence, and the Languedoc of France too.
In the southern Rhône, viognier shares the limelight with whites, marsanne and roussanne. Thanks to Rhône Rangers such as Calera, Joseph Phelps, and Cline, this trio enjoys success in California. A touch of viognier can be blended with the robust red grape syrah in Côte Rotie, a region of the northern Rhone. Australians, who love to mimic established French blends, dabble in this sensual combination as well.
Viognier is a special treat for the California chardonnay drinker and is a welcome new experience for the wine savvy. Inexpensive versions offer more fruit flavors than flowers or minerals nuances. These tasty examples of viognier are available in Colorado:
Yalumba Viognier
Alamos Viognier
Echelon Viognier
Cline Viognier
Phelps White Pastiche
Freemark Abbey Viognier
E. Guigal Condrieu
Calera Viognier
d'Arenburg Laughing Magpie
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